Today I woke up at 5am to surf with the ladies and an adventurous writer we work with who is a surf nut as well. He claimed he was going to pick G-love and I up at 5:30am, so we could get a quick surf in and get to work on time. Cut to 6:15 and my ride has finally shown up. I longed for those lost 45minutes of sleep as if it was an estranged lover.
We rolled up to Rockaway along with the early fall sun. Whatever laid back surfer attitude I had in the car disappeared when I saw how angry and choppy the waves where. I got in but didnít make it out past the breaks. My frustration turned to goofiness since the whitewater was really fun to practice popup in. I was pretty happy and proud that I was out there trying my best, but my friends (who are now crazy good) werenít that impressed. They keep encouraging me to get out there, and there is not way I will get better unless I really get out there and endure the bad conditions. There are a lot of surfing metaphors that can be applied to life, I guess. I always think, that 70% of success is showing up. I think I need to work on the other 30% more.